{"id":18723,"date":"2025-01-20T17:56:20","date_gmt":"2025-01-20T16:56:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mio.osupytheas.fr\/?page_id=18723"},"modified":"2025-02-25T11:54:07","modified_gmt":"2025-02-25T10:54:07","slug":"vagues-courants-et-processus-cotiers","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.mio.osupytheas.fr\/fr\/recherche\/les-equipes-de-recherche\/equipe-oceanographie-physique-littorale-et-cotiere-oplc\/vagues-courants-et-processus-cotiers\/","title":{"rendered":"Vagues, courants et processus c\u00f4tiers"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-page\" data-elementor-id=\"18723\" class=\"elementor elementor-18723\" data-elementor-post-type=\"page\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-694e2883 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"694e2883\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-33eaedaf e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-child\" data-id=\"33eaedaf\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-3c257d07 elementor-widget__width-initial elementor-widget elementor-widget-theme-post-title elementor-page-title elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"3c257d07\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"theme-post-title.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h1 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Vagues, courants et processus c\u00f4tiers<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-2ca5a722 elementor-widget__width-initial breadcrumb elementor-widget elementor-widget-shortcode\" data-id=\"2ca5a722\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"shortcode.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-shortcode\"><nav aria-label=\"breadcrumbs\">\n            <div class=\"breadcrumb-container theme1\">\n                <ol>\n                                    <\/ol>\n            <\/div>\n        <\/nav>    <script type=\"application\/ld+json\">\n        {\n            \"@context\": \"http:\/\/schema.org\",\n            \"@type\": \"BreadcrumbList\",\n            \"itemListElement\": [\n                            ]\n        }\n    <\/script>\n   \n    <script>\n            <\/script>\n <\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c347aed e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"c347aed\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-92a5901 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"92a5901\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\u00a0<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ces activit\u00e9s de recherche ont pour fil conducteur les \u00abondes de gravit\u00e9\u00bb : vagues, houles, ondes longues, tsunamis, mar\u00e9es. Elles portent sur la caract\u00e9risation conjointe des vagues et courants et sur les interactions houles-structures-fonds-courants pour les probl\u00e8mes de transformations de la houle, d\u2019\u00e9volutions bathym\u00e9triques autour d\u2019ouvrages et d\u2019\u00e9rosion des plages. Elles s\u2019appuient sur travaux th\u00e9oriques, num\u00e9riques, sur les moyens exp\u00e9rimentaux mutualis\u00e9s avec l\u2019\u00e9cole d\u2019ing\u00e9nieur SeaTech (canaux et bassin d\u2019essai) \u00e0 l\u2019UTLN, sur l\u2019observation sur le long terme des niveaux d\u2019eau et temp\u00e9ratures \u00e0 la c\u00f4te (r\u00e9seau HTM-NET) et sur un r\u00e9seau de radars Hautes-Fr\u00e9quences maintenu par le MIO dans la r\u00e9gion de Toulon.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7e48c31 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"7e48c31\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d36d31d elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"d36d31d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h3 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Publications r\u00e9centes<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d41c0c2 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"d41c0c2\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-9a9147e elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"9a9147e\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Belibassakis, K. A and Rey, V., (2024), <em>Estimation of harbor and bay resonances by MMS-FEM model with application to the bay of Toulon France, Oceanologia, Oceanologia<\/em>, 66 (4), 2024.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Cuevas, A., Rey, V., Ardhuin, F. and Touboul, J. (2025), <em>Current measurement by use of synchronous wave probes: Method and example of laboratory experiments for progressive or partially standing waves<\/em>, Appl. Ocean Res., 154 (2025), 104386.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Assessment of OMA Gap-Filling Performances for Multiple and Single Coastal HF Radar Systems: Validation with Drifter Data in the Ligurian Sea<\/em>, L Corgnati, M Berta, Z Kokkini, C Mantovani, MG Magaldi, A Molcard, &#8230;, Remote Sensing 16 (13), 2458, 2024.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Improved calculation of the second-order ocean Doppler spectrum for sea state inversion<\/em>, CA Gu\u00e9rin, IEEE Journal of Ocean Engineering 2025.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>HF Radar Real-Time Alert to a Tsunami-Like Disturbance at Tofino on January 5, 2020: Surge or Tsunami ?<\/em> M Heron, B Domps, CA Gu\u00e9rin, M Wang, L Petersen, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 2023.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>New signal processing techniques for phased-array oceanographic radars: self-calibration, antenna grouping, and denoising<\/em>, D Dumas, CA Gu\u00e9rin, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 40 (6), 753-769, 2023.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>4D-Var data assimilation and observation impact on surface transport of HF-Radar derived surface currents in the North-Western Mediterranean Sea<\/em>, M Bendoni, AM Moore, A Molcard, MG Magaldi, M Fattorini, C Brandini, Ocean Modelling 184, 102236, 2023.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Revisiting the Cox and Munk wave-slope statistics using IASI observations of the sea surface<\/em>, CA Gu\u00e9rin, V Capelle, JM Hartmann, Remote Sensing of Environment 288, 113508, 2023.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Breakdown of near-surface sea current from high-frequency radar data<\/em>, A C\u00e1ceres-Euse, A Molcard, N Bourg, D Dumas, CA Gu\u00e9rin, G Besio, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 39 (12), 1927-1942, 2023.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Rapid Scale Wind Profiling with Autoregressive Modeling and L-Band Doppler Radar<\/em>, B Domps, J Marmain, CA Gu\u00e9rin, IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing 60, 1-10, 2022.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Coastal high-frequency radars in the Mediterranean\u2013Part 2: Applications in support of science priorities and societal needs<\/em>, E Reyes, E Aguiar, M Bendoni, M Berta, C Brandini, A C\u00e1ceres-Euse, &#8230;D Dumas&#8230;CA Gu\u00e9rin&#8230; A Molcard, Ocean science 18 (3), 797-837, 2022.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Coastal high-frequency radars in the Mediterranean\u2013Part 1: Status of operations and a framework for future development<\/em>, P Lorente, E Aguiar, M Bendoni, M Berta, C Brandini, A C\u00e1ceres-Euse, &#8230;D Dumas&#8230;CA Gu\u00e9rin&#8230; A Molcard. Ocean science 18 (3), 761-795, 2022.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>A Weakly Nonlinear System for Waves and Sheared Currents over Variable Bathymetry<\/em>, J Touboul, V Morales-Marquez, K Belibassakis, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12 (3), 509, 2024.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Estimation of harbor and bay resonances by MMS-FEM model with application to the Bay of Toulon<\/em>, France, K Belibassakis, V Rey &#8211; Oceanologia, 2024.<\/p><p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Observations and simulations of the meteotsunami generated by the Tonga eruption on 15 January 2022 in the Mediterranean Sea<\/em>, P Heinrich, A Gailler, A Dupont, V Rey, Geophysical Journal &#8230;, 2023 \u2013 academic.oup.com<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-0e0d962 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"0e0d962\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5beb5c6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"5beb5c6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h3 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Projets en cours<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f9d6d7b e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"f9d6d7b\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-0c59461 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"0c59461\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>ANR ROSMED \u00ab\u00a0Radars \u00e0 Ondes de Surface en Mediterran\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong> : 2023-2025 (CA Gu\u00e9rin, D. Dumas, A. Molcard, A. Caceres), PI MIO\/ONERA, 162 ke MIO. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019exploiter pour l\u2019oc\u00e9anographie les capacit\u00e9s exceptionnelles du Radar \u00e0 Ondes de Surface install\u00e9 par l\u2019ONERA aux Salins du Midi. Ce radar, con\u00e7u pour la d\u00e9tection de navires \u00e0 longue port\u00e9e, peut \u00eatre utilis\u00e9 pour la cartographie des courants avec une excellente r\u00e9solution azimutale et permettra de couvrir une grande partie du Golfe du Lion jusqu\u2019\u00e0 300 km des c\u00f4tes. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-15124570 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"15124570\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-1126899c elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"1126899c\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Partager sur 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class=\"elementor-grid-item\" role=\"listitem\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-share-btn elementor-share-btn_whatsapp\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Partager sur whatsapp\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"elementor-share-btn__icon\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<svg aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"e-font-icon-svg e-fab-whatsapp\" viewBox=\"0 0 448 512\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"><path d=\"M380.9 97.1C339 55.1 283.2 32 223.9 32c-122.4 0-222 99.6-222 222 0 39.1 10.2 77.3 29.6 111L0 480l117.7-30.9c32.4 17.7 68.9 27 106.1 27h.1c122.3 0 224.1-99.6 224.1-222 0-59.3-25.2-115-67.1-157zm-157 341.6c-33.2 0-65.7-8.9-94-25.7l-6.7-4-69.8 18.3L72 359.2l-4.4-7c-18.5-29.4-28.2-63.3-28.2-98.2 0-101.7 82.8-184.5 184.6-184.5 49.3 0 95.6 19.2 130.4 54.1 34.8 34.9 56.2 81.2 56.1 130.5 0 101.8-84.9 184.6-186.6 184.6zm101.2-138.2c-5.5-2.8-32.8-16.2-37.9-18-5.1-1.9-8.8-2.8-12.5 2.8-3.7 5.6-14.3 18-17.6 21.8-3.2 3.7-6.5 4.2-12 1.4-32.6-16.3-54-29.1-75.5-66-5.7-9.8 5.7-9.1 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